Heatwave, Romans seek vintage snow cones to beat the heat
Rome’s Classic Shaved‑Ice: A Heat‑Wave Staple
When the capital’s July temperatures soar, Romans flock to the traditional grattachecca – a rainbow, low‑cost treat that is far braver than ice cream or gelato.
Massimo and Rosanna: A Century‑Old Kiosk
The 72‑year‑old Massimo Crescenzi runs the “Golden Fountain” near the Tiber, whirling around a line of eager customers in a 37 °C heatwave. Rosanna, behind the scenes, pulls massive ice blocks from a freezer, cracks them with a pick, and feeds the chunks into a modern machine.
Massimo then pours the crushed ice into a glass, layering freshly‑picked fruit and vibrant syrups – every patron’s wishes satisfied on the spot.
He stresses that Rome’s beloved treat differs from the Sicilian granita, in which water, fruit and sugar freeze together from the start.
Hand‑Shaved vs. Machine‑Shaved
A long‑standing debate rages: the hygienic, machine‑shaved method or the old‑fashioned, hand‑shaved way. Massimo leans toward the machine, claiming it is the more sanitary option.
Comfort for the Thermometer‑Challenged
Andrea Alvarado, a 55‑year‑old Californian, sampled the exotic tamarind, mint and black‑cherry flavour, telling AFP: “It’s delicious – especially on a hot day, it’s refreshingly invigorating.”
She discovered the four‑euro treat on social media, a delight that revives an old tradition in modern form.
Heatwaves Expand Demand
The owners report surge in demand and note that many kiosks across Rome now serve the frozen dessert.
“The season used to start in June through September. Now we’re May to October and may be an even longer season in the next few years,” Crescenzi said.
Four Generations – The Kiosk’s Legacy
Rosanna Mariani highlighted black‑and‑white photos of the 1913 family business. “It’s the oldest kiosk in Rome – opened by my grandfather 112 years ago,” grew the statement.
Massimo explained that four generations now keep the business alive, with his youngest son helping during the summer rush.
USA tourist Victoria Kiser, enjoying her treat under shade, agreed: “There’s a reason it’s been in business since 1913.”
Grattachecca: From Abruzzo to Rome
Massimo knows the history of the shaved‑ice like the back of his hand.
Back in 1913, “ice came from the Abruzzo mountains and was transported to Rome by carts,” he remembers. “They were the days before factories began to produce ice, making everything more efficient.”
The name probably came from a nobleman whose servants prepared food and drink. When he asked for a refreshing drink, he had around him various people – including the famous Francesca, whose diminutive in Roman dialect is “checca.” Grattachecca was born.
Tourists Love It, Even if It’s Hard to Pronounce
French tourist Fabien Torcol basked in a coconut‑lemon grattachecca. “It’s not easy to pronounce,” he laughed, but he loved the dessert.
